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About Dolcetto
Literally “little sweet one,” this grape varietal shares its name with the spicy light to medium-bodied wine that is primarily grown in the Langhe region of Piemonte. Produced under seven different DOC classifications, the best known of which are d’Alba, d’Asti, and di Dogliani, it is believed that the Dolcetto grape was discovered in Dogliani around the fifteenth century, although according to legend an edict from the Marchese di Clavesana in 1303 ordered that only Dolcetto be planted in his territories under penalty of death. Understandably, the Doglianese believe their Dolcetto to be the truest representation of the grape and continue the revival effort underway since the 1980s as an area producing some of the finest Dolcetto.
Grape/Flavor Profile
Unlike the other two that make up the great triumvirate of Piemontese red wine grapes – Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo – Dolcetto’s aromas tend toward black fruits: black cherries, black plum, black raspberries, and is reflected in its dark purple color. Notes of licorice and spice are not uncommon although complexity and fruit-fowardness in the wine can differ depending on producer and terroir.
Those who expect a sweet red wine from Dolcetto will likely be disappointed. Although its name suggests sweetness, it is the grape, not the wine, that is sweet. In fact, a common characteristic of Dolcetto is its satisfying slight bitterness, a result of fermentation of the fruit’s high level of sugar. Another reason for its name is the berry’s low acidity: less acid means less competition with the sugar, thereby emphasizing its sweet flavor.
It is because of this low acidity that Dolcetto is drunk fairly young, best when no more than three years old. A common misconception stemming from this fact is the unfair comparison to Beaujolais Nouveau, infuriating Dolcetto producers to the extent that some have actually made some to be drunk only a few months after harvest to prove that it does not work as novello, or nouveau. More nuanced than Beaujolais Nouveau, Dolcetto breezily rides the fine line between luscious gulpability and restrained elegance needed to successfully pair with complex dishes such as rabbit risotto. Rather than overwhelming sweet fruit that fizzles with no finish, Dolcetto lingers on the palate with a pleasant hint of violets and anise. |
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