May 21, 2009

Italy's 2002 Vintage
A growing season like 2002 separates the lucky producers from the unlucky, but it also separates the really excellent viticulturists from the capable. This week, I'm delighted to offer wines from some of the producers who met the climactic challenge of 2002 with aplomb: Domenico Clerico, Gianfranco Soldera, Ales Kristancic's Movia and Piero Antinori's Solaia.

Domenico Clerico Barolo 2002

Quantity	Price
1 – 11	HK$468.00
12 +	HK$430.56

Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2004

Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra--the house flagship--derives from grapes cultivated in the celebrated Ginestra cru of Barolo's Monforte d'Alba. Clerico initially purchased 3.3 hectares in Ginestra in 1981, and enlarged his holdings in 2001, with the acquisition of an additional 5.4 hectares. The wine is known for its demonstrative aromatic expression, a quality that is attributed to the vines' south to southeast exposure and altitude of 300 meters. While Clerico aged Ginestra for a period of time exclusively in 700-liter tonneaux, the current medium employed is barrique (90% of which is new). The Barolo was named for the affable half of the sibling pair--Mentin and Fiore--that owned the property prior to Clerico, as well as the house (ciabot in Pietmontese dialect) that resided in the vineyard.

This beautifully balanced Barolo is delectably rich. A single-vineyard bottling that expresses the merits of the Ginestra vineyard's distinctive high altitude site. Rich, but soft ripe fruit, with layers of violet, thick tannins and long, clean finish.

HK$828.00

Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana 2004

The cru Monforte Pajana is a r single-vineyard expression known for being reticent on the nose, yet generous on the palate. Due to Clerico’s astute handling of the vintage’s nature, the ’03 demonstrates its unity and is one of the few ’03s approachable today. The ’04 boasts expansive fruit aromatics and a powerfully slick display of bold, dark fruits. The south-facing slopes benefit from an intense solar exposure that results in a more fruit-driven style. Case production hovers around 830. Indisputably this is another knockout from 2004 you don’t want to miss.

HK$741.00

Movia Veliko Rosso 2002

Quantity	Price
1 – 11	HK$420.00
12 +	HK$386.40

Antinori Solaia 2002

Solaia represents Giacomo Tachis's creative engagement with Piero Antinori. While Tignanello may have introduced the estate, Solaia has never been in its shadows. Essentially the mirror image of Tignanello, Solaia leans on Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Sangiovese, but with an added smidge of Cabernet Franc. Like the Tignanello, Solaia is derived exclusively from its namesake vineyard, Solaia- meaning sunny one-and it is produced exclusively in vintages of high caliber. With a gorgeous, fat profile of cassis, herbs, and minerals that's marked with mouthwatering notes of tar and scorched earth, Solaia owns the happy convergence of international grapes and Italian terroir and tradition.

HK$1,400.00

Movia Veliko Rosso 2003

The Veliko Rosso (Rdece in Slovenian) —which literally means “Big
Red”—is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Nero. While
the name is not a misnomer, given the wine’s full body, this is a
shapely, toned red that cuts a lean figure, charged with an acidity that
is almost racy—quite nearly like that of a white, in fact. The
monovarietal Cabernet is of the same mode, as it does not abuse the
varietal through excessive alcohol levels or over- extraction—it is a
Cabernet of finesse. Another minimalist feature: As both are technically
labeled as Slovenian wines, as opposed to Italian, they represent
tremendous values.

Quantity	Price
1 – 11	HK$420.00
12 +	HK$386.40

Movia Veliko Rosso 2004

Quantity	Price
1 – 11	HK$420.00
12 +	HK$386.40

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