|
|
About Wines of Abruzzo
Abruzzo’s proximal distance to Rome positions it within easy reach of the latter’s tourist population. While it doesn’t enjoy “destination” status given this association, Abruzzo does appeal to a specialty population—those who seek the thrill of mountain sports, which are well provided for by the Apennine Range. Spanning the length of Abruzzo, the Apennines contain the Gran Sasso massif, which features Italy’s highest peak—Corno Grande. It is also bordered by Le Marche, Lazio, and its petite neighbor Molise, which was formerly part of Abruzzo proper.
As the mountains and sea also enjoy a fair degree of proximity, the combination of their respective elements, in conjunction with Abruzzo’s predominantly dry climate, provides for an ideal viticultural context. The mountains, however, have also effected a division between Abruzzo and its neighbors, resulting in this region’s former economic hardships. Thus, while innately disposed to deliver quality wines, Abruzzo’s wine culture was historically defined by the cooperative realm. Though bulk wine remainsa significant category, quality productions now constitute a formidable group in their own right. While Abruzzo is generally disposed to be particularly beneficent in the production of wine, various microclimates in its northern region are regarded as the most conducive to winegrowing.
Abruzzo’s grape constituency is essentially comprised of one white and one red—Trebbiano and Montepulciano, respectively. Both take the name of the regional designation to form Abruzzo’s most prolific DOCs—Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Many are quite familiar with both, given their representation in Abruzzo’s historically undiscriminating turnout. As indicated above, this orientation has slightly shifted in recent years, although the innate character of each grape somewhat supports mass production efforts.
Trebbiano is Italy’s most ubiquitous white varietal—and the staple of the quintessential Italian white, turning out the same performance regardless where it is grown. Abruzzese producers have taken to blending it with more demonstrative varietals, particularly Chardonnay. As for Montepulciano, it essentially offers the antithesis of its regional counterpart, delivering a profile comprised of generous black fruits, low acidity, and sweet tannins. This ample provision has enabled producers to turn out decent bottlings in fairly significant quantities. In recent years, however, producers have sought to maximize Montepulciano’s rich core of black and purple fruits through aging in barrique and rigorous processes of selection, producing concentrated offerings. This has been reinforced through the designation of additional appellations, namely, the Colline Teramane DOCG and the Controguerra DOC, which serve to differentiate Montepulcianos derived from the north and south, respectively.
Some producers have always performed far above the mainstream demonstrating the remarkable inherent potential not only of Montepulciano, but of the lowly Trebbiano as well. In fact, the work of Abruzzo’s foremost practitioners—the late Edoardo Valentini and Emidio Pepe—has enabled the wines derived from these grapes to share the company of Italy’s most esteemed natives. Moreover, it is said that Valentini worked with a distinct clone of Trebbiano, a grape “in the rough” that projects a more forward character than that delivered by the main representative.
The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC also provides for a rosé version— Cerasuolo—one that achieves a far more demonstrative profile than most rosati. In Abruzzo, Cerasuolo is shown to particular effect when matched with regional specialties such as maccheroni alla chitarra (guitar-style pasta) in a tomato-peperoncino sauce and polpi in purgatorio (octopus with oil, garlic, tomato, and red pepper). The unassuming Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, be it ever so simple, provides just the thing for seafood. While much is proffered by the Adriatic in support of this pairing, the Abruzzese seem to favor the provisions of the land.
|
|
Regional Information
Capital City: L'Aquila
Provinces: 4
Surface: 4,167 sq miles
Population: 1,305,307
Density: 46/sq mile
Grapes
White Grapes:
Trebbiano
Red Grapes:
Montepulciano
Barbera
Sangiovese
Food
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Aprutino Pescarese
Colline Teatine
Pretuziano delle Colline
Teramane
Salumi
Salamini Iitaliani alla
Cacciatora
Vitellone Bianco
dell'Appennino
Centrale
Other Regional Specialties
Mortadella
Salsiccia di Fegato
Scamorza
Recipes
Abbacchio al Diavolo
Pollo Canzanese
Bucatini all'Amatriciana
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
